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The Aftermarket Auto Parts Alliance, Inc Board of Directors has promoted JC Washbish to Chief Executive Officer, effective January 1, 2025. This appointment follows JC’s promotion to President in early 2024. JC will now serve in his capacity as both President and CEO.

“We continue to be impressed with JC’s leadership, passion and drive, and we expect the same as President and CEO of the Alliance,” said Eli N. Futerman, Chairman of the Alliance Board of Directors and co-owner of Hahn Automotive Warehouse, Inc. “JC brings a strong vision and direction to our shareholder membership.”

Todd Leimenstoll, Alliance Board Director and Secretary, as well as President & CEO of the Auto-Wares Group of Companies, also expressed confidence in JC’s leadership: “As a group, we continue to look toward the future and strongly believe in our industry partnerships. JC has proven to be a strong leader, facilitating industry collaboration, and is a forward thinker on how we can all work together to support the entire distribution channel.”

In his new role as President & CEO, Washbish will continue to collaborate closely with all of the Alliance’s shareholders and channel partners to drive business development and strengthen industry relations. All Alliance executive leadership teams—including those in information technology, sales and marketing, category management, and finance—will continue to report to JC as he leads the Alliance toward achieving its strategic goals.

“The Alliance remains the premier independent distribution program group,” said JC Washbish. “We are committed to fostering growth and innovation, expanding our reach, and continuing to provide exceptional value to our shareholders, channel partners and customers. We have a talented, motivated team driven by our motto: ‘Service is the difference, we get it!’”

JC Washbish joined the Alliance in 2016 as Sales, Marketing, and Brand Manager, with responsibilities that included advertising, promotions, and sales support. In 2017, he was promoted to Director of Marketing, and in 2019, to Vice President of Sales and Marketing. During this time, he played a key role in expanding the company’s marketing and sales initiatives. In 2024, JC was promoted to President, a role in which he helped shape the company’s strategic direction and growth. His leadership experience spans areas such as business development, strategic planning, and team coordination across sales, marketing, category management, and operations.

JC holds a Juris Doctor from Ave Maria School of Law in Naples, Florida, and a Bachelor of Arts in History from Franciscan University of Steubenville, Ohio. He has earned his AAP designation from the University of the Aftermarket and is a graduate of Leadership 2.0, reflecting his commitment to professional development and industry leadership. JC is also the 2024 recipient of the Northwood University Automotive Aftermarket Education Award.

“JC continues to provide strong leadership to the Alliance and its shareholders,” said Corey Bartlett, Treasurer of the Alliance Board of Directors and CEO of APH, Inc. “The Board is excited about the Alliance’s future, and we are in great hands with JC as President and CEO.”

JC becomes the third CEO in the history of the Alliance, following his father, John R. Washbish, who served from 2010 to 2024, and Richard “Dick” Morgan, who led the Alliance for over 14 years from 1994 to 2009. John R. Washbish will continue to serve the Alliance and its shareholders in an advisory capacity.

The 959 was another first to use a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) because it was equipped with the world’s first self-supporting run-flat tires made by Bridgestone. This TPMS setup was again used on the 928 for model years 1990 to 1994.

The early system used two sensors mounted 180 degrees apart in special holes in the valley of the wheel. The sensors looked like a stack of poker chips. A diaphragm inside the sensors connected to switches that were set to a reference pressure. The receiver was mounted on the knuckle and was an inductive coil that would pass current through the sensors. Depending on the position of the diaphragm and which switches were open or closed, the amount of current flowing through the receiver’s coil would change.

The disadvantage with this early tire pressure monitoring system is the wheels had to have a large hole for the barrel of the wheel for the sensor. Also, the inductive sensor mounted to the knuckle could easily be damaged by road debris.  

In 2004, Porsche started to use a conventional TPMS system for the Cayenne and select Boxster and 911 models. These systems were a lot like those found on BMW, Mercedes-Benz and Audi vehicles. The best way to tell if a Porsche has TPMS is to look for metal valve stems. Sensors can last up to 10 years and up to 100,000 miles. But, the life of the sensor can change depending on the tire pressure sampling frequency and temperature extremes.

Many Porsche models have eliminated the spare tire for weight savings. In place of the spare is an inflation pump that can inject sealant into the tire to seal a puncture. The sealant is designed to be compatible with the sensors and should not clog the pressure port on the body of the sensor. The sealant canister has a limited life. Check the service schedule for the replacement interval of the sealant. The typical interval for replacement is three or four years. 

Diagnostics

Porsche TPMS systems use four antennas mounted in the wheel wells and a designated module for the tire pressure. The sensors use a 433mHz and 315mHz frequency. On most models, the menu will have the option for two sets of tires and sensor IDs for summer and winter tires.

You can read the remaining lifespan of the battery capacity of the TPMS sensor using some TPMS tools. The value you read out gives an indication if a sensor needs to be replaced.

The system has a telltale malfunction indicator light and a low-pressure light. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale light will flash for approximately one minute, and will then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle startups, as long as the malfunction exists.

If a sensor is not transmitting, the warning light in the speedometer flashes for one minute, and then remains continuously illuminated. Codes and data from the TPMS control module can be accessed with a TPMS or scan tool. If there is a problem, it is typically communication errors with the four receivers in the wheel wells.

It is also important to remember that the TPMS module starts hunting for sensor signals the second the ignition is turned on. Leaving the ignition in the “on” position when a wheel is removed may cause the information display to say, “Wheel change? Input new TPM settings.” Also, if the second set of wheels is in the vicinity of the vehicle, the same warning could be set.

Relearn Process

Before starting any relearn process, set the tire to the pressure specified in the doorjamb for the cold temperature. The relearn process starts with turning the ignition on, accessing the vehicle’s computer and entering into the tire pressure control menu. On most models, you will need to select the winter or summer set of tires. The system will then start to learn the sensor IDs and positions.

The onboard computer displays the message “TPM is learning.” The process may take 2 to 10 minutes, and the vehicle speed needs to be above 15-16 mph. During this time, the current tire pressures are not available on the display. The tire pressure warning light will remain lit until all wheels have been learned.

Position and pressure information will be displayed as soon as the TPMS system has assigned the wheels identified as belonging to the vehicle and to the correct wheel positions.

If the Porsche you are working on has custom wheels, mounting the valve stem and sensor can be challenging. Most valve stem holes come in a few sizes, with the most common being 0.453 inches and 0.625. For TPMS valve stems, the size of the hole can be larger for some snap-in and clamp-on holes, but the real problem can be the anatomy of some custom wheels. The valve stem areas may not have the correct size and shape, affecting how a TPMS valve stem seals. And, some custom rims can have drop centers, barrels and flanges that don’t match up with the original rim or TPMS sensor. But there are some options to address this.

A constant velocity (CV) axle includes the axle shaft itself, along with the inner and outer CV joints as an assembly. The shaft itself is a rather mundane part, although there is more to them than meets the eye, but I’ll get to that in a little bit.

Perhaps the most interesting part about a CV axle is the joints, but it all seems more significant when we first look into their predecessor, the infamous u-joint. U-joints can handle a lot of torque, but they have a downside in the nature of their operating characteristics.

U-joints are located on the ends of a driveshaft, the most typical configuration on a rear-wheel-drive vehicle, in which the joints are connected to a front and rear yoke. The front yoke attaches to the transmission and the rear yoke attaches to rear differential. As the engine moves from the effects of torque and as the suspension of a vehicle travels up and down, the angle of the driveshaft changes.

U-joints transfer the motion between the yoke and driveshaft at different angles, allowing for driveline movement. When a yoke and the driveshaft are in perfect alignment, the velocity from one is transferred to the other at the same rate. However, when there is an angle between the two, the velocity of the driven member fluctuates continuously during rotation.

It can be hard to visualize, but the reason this happens is that as the angle of the u-joint changes, the two halves of the u-joint cross are forced to rotate on a different axis. The drive axis remains at a constant velocity, and both ends of the u-joint cross rotate in the same consistent circular path.

The driven axis, however, rotates in a path which causes the distance of travel at the outer ends of the u-joint cross to increase or decrease in relation to the consistent points of the drive axis.

This effect results in the continuous fluctuation of velocity between the input and output sides. While the input remains at a consistent speed, the output speeds up and slows down as the points of the driven axis continuously alter between a long and short path of travel.

So, why don’t we feel that on a vehicle with a traditional driveshaft? Because there are two u-joints and the fluctuation on each end balances out, effectively allowing the driveshaft to provide a consistent output speed to the rear differential. The angle of the two joints must be the same, however, and it doesn’t take much wear in one for the angles to differ, and subsequently cause a vibration.

U-joints are known for their propensity to cause vibration, and the other disadvantage they have is the greater the angle of the u-joint, the greater the fluctuation in velocity. Anything over 30 degrees and the fluctuation dramatically increases. Have you ever noticed how jittery an old four-wheel-drive truck feels in the front when the hubs are locked, and you turn a corner? Now you know why.  

A Double-Cardan u-joint. It is basically two u-joints side-by side with a common link-yoke in between. This is one of the original concepts for a true constant velocity (CV) joint, and they are often referred to as this. The advantage they have is they offer smoother operation at greater angles, and they are common on four-wheel-drive trucks, and also a common upgrade for lifted trucks where the driveshaft angle is altered considerably.

The drawback to a Double-Cardan joint is they are bulky, and they can still suffer from limitations due to operating angle. True CV joints, as we know them today, have been around since the early 20th century, but the popularity of the front-wheel-drive (FWD) vehicle is what made them a household name.

Today’s CV joints are a radical departure from anything resembling a u-joint, and not only do CV joints transfer power without speed fluctuation, but they also can operate at angles up to and exceeding 50 degrees, depending on the joint. Since the drive wheels on a FWD vehicle also steer, the ability for this increased operating angle is what makes the CV joint so beneficial for FWD. 

A FWD vehicle has two CV shafts, one on each side, and each shaft features an outboard and inboard joint. The outboard joints are considered fixed joints, meaning they don’t offer in and out movement. It’s their ability to operate at the increased angles for steering that’s important. The inboard joints are considered plunge joints, meaning they offer a wide range of inner and outer directional movement in order to take up for length differences as the suspension travels up and down.

You’ll see two types of CV joints. One is the Rzeppa design, which features steel balls trapped in a cage and riding on an inner and outer race. The tri-pod design is the second, which features three roller bearings that ride in a race or cage, sometimes referred to as a tulip assembly. Both types of joints can be found in either a fixed or plunging design for outboard or inboard use, but the Rzeppa design has proven more popular as an outboard joint. The Rzeppa works well as an inboard joint too, but the tri-pod design gets the nod for the most effective operation as a plunge joint.

The CV shafts themselves can differ in length from side to side, and in early FWD development, torque steer, the vehicle pulling one direction or the other during acceleration, was sometimes a result of this difference. Different diameter shafts as well as hollow versus solid became part of the design aspects to combat this problem. Drivetrain mounting and torque control has also advanced considerably since the early days of FWD, and torque steer is rarely a problem.

Due to their overall advantages, CV shafts are now utilized front and rear, and it’s not uncommon to see driveshafts that feature CV joints instead of u-joints. U-joints aren’t forgotten, however, due to their ability to handle high torque and work well in abusive environments that may not be so friendly to the boot on a CV joint (such as the exposed location of a driveshaft under a truck).  

CV joints are packed with a specially formulated grease, and a rubber boot is sealed to both the CV shaft and the joint, to keep the grease in place. When a boot is torn or begins to leak, the grease goes away, and dirt gets inside. CV joints typically need no service until this happens.

There was a time when the most common service for a bad boot was to remove the CV joint, take it apart, clean it, repack it and install a new boot. Generally, this was routine, however from time to time you could experience a nightmare. Much of the reason we replaced the boots and serviced the joints in this manner was due to the high cost of a replacement joint or a complete shaft. Even with the additional labor, it was far more cost effective to replace just the boot.

Over time, with advancements in manufacturing and the availability of supplies, the cost of complete CV shafts went down, and it simply made more sense to replace them as a complete unit, not to mention it makes things easier for technicians.

The most important part of selling a new CV shaft is making sure it’s the correct one. You should compare shaft length, the size of the CV joints, and if the vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes with a tone ring on the outer CV joint, be sure the replacement has this ring. Some early CV joints had the tone ring cast into them, but that design was quickly abandoned for a press-fit tone ring. If your customer doesn’t yet have the original shaft out, recommend they make these comparisons prior to installing the new shaft.

Some CV shaft applications come with an ABS tone ring installed, regardless of whether or not the vehicle is equipped with ABS. If not, in most cases, the ring has no consequence, however in the rare situation where it rubs or contacts something, the rings can be removed easily.

The final, and perhaps most important, recommendation is to always torque the fastener that secures the outer CV joint in the wheel hub. If the factory procedure is not adhered to and the correct torque specification not used, damage can and will occur to the wheel bearing.

The Core of Electric Vehicle Drive Units

This complex system consists of various components that work together to deliver the power and torque required. Unlike their gasoline-powered counterparts, electric vehicles (EVs) rely on an electric motor and a battery pack to propel the vehicle forward. EVs operate at high voltages, typically ranging from 300 to 800 volts, to power the electric motor(s) and other components. Proper safety protocols and specialized training are essential when working on or around the high-voltage systems in an EV to prevent serious injuries or damage.

At the core of an EV is the drive unit, which is responsible for converting the electrical energy stored in the battery into the mechanical energy needed to move the wheels. This complex system consists of various components that work together to deliver the power and torque required.

The electric motor is the primary component of the drive unit, converting electrical energy into mechanical energy. These motors come in various types, such as AC induction motors, permanent magnet synchronous motors, and switched reluctance motors, each with its own unique characteristics and performance capabilities.

The power electronics module, often referred to as the inverter, is responsible for controlling the flow of electricity between the battery and the electric motor. It converts the direct current (DC) from the battery into the alternating current (AC) required by the motor. The gearbox, or gear reduction system, is responsible for transmitting the high-speed, low-torque output of the electric motor to the wheels, which require high torque and lower speeds for efficient and effective propulsion. This gear reduction system typically consists of a single-speed or multi-speed gearbox, depending on the design and performance requirements of the vehicle.

To ensure the efficient and reliable operation of the drive unit, a sophisticated cooling system is in place to dissipate the heat. A network of sensors and control systems continuously monitor the performance of the drive unit, allowing for real-time adjustments and diagnostics.

While EV drive units are generally more reliable and require less maintenance than their internal combustion engine counterparts, they are not immune to issues. Common problems may include bearing failures, gear wear, cooling system malfunctions, and electrical component failures.

Maintaining an EV’s drive unit is crucial for ensuring its longevity, performance, and efficiency. Unlike internal combustion engine vehicles, electric vehicles have different fluid requirements for their drive units. These fluids, such as lubricants and coolants, are specifically formulated to work with the components and operating conditions of EV drive units.

The recommended service intervals for EV drive units can vary depending on the manufacturer, driving conditions, and usage patterns. Generally, it is advisable to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for scheduled maintenance, which may include regular fluid changes, inspections, and component replacements.

Measuring the steering wheel position angle, rate of turn and torque applied by the driver are typically the job of a sensor cluster that contains multiple steering angle sensors (SAS).

The sensor cluster will always have more than one steering angle sensor. Some sensor clusters have three sensors for redundancy, for improving the resolution of the sensor cluster and to confirm the data. It is important for the ABS/ESC module to receive two signals to verify the steering wheel’s position. These signals are often out of phase with each other.  

Analog SASs are similar to throttle position sensors. SASs are wired with a 5-volt reference, chassis ground and signal output. To test the SAS, you have to backprobe a connector that is typically under the steering column. 

As the steering wheel is turned, the SAS produces a signal that toggles between 0 and 5 volts as the wheel is turned 360 degrees. As the wheel is turned lock-to-lock, the voltage will reach 5 volts three times and 0 volts three times.

On most vehicles, turning to the right creates a positive voltage and to the left generates a negative voltage. But, some systems are the opposite. The labscope pattern shows the signal traces from the two sensors on top of each other. This can be helpful when comparing the signals and if one is flat lining.

A digital SAS is often called a “contactless sensor.” This type of sensor uses an LED light, a wheel that acts as a shutter and an optical sensor that measures interruption in the light. The signal for these types of sensors is a digital square-wave signal. The frequency of the voltage changes depending on the speed the wheel is turning.

The sensor clusters for these sensors often contain a third sensor to measure if the wheel is centered. With the wheel straight, the voltage is close to 0 volts. When the steering wheel is moved off center, the voltage goes high.

Some scan tools will display the data as an angle. In some cases, you can see the voltages from the sensors.

Torque Sensor

Measuring the amount of force being applied by the driver to the steering wheel is used by both the stability control and power steering systems. The information can be used to determine driver intentions and the performance of the power steering system. But, it can also detect a steering pull.

The torque sensor performs the same function as the torsion bar and spool valve in a hydraulic system. The electronic sensor uses a torsion sensor in the same manner as in the spool valve in a hydraulic power steering system. There are different types of electronic torque sensors, and they are classified as contact and non-contact types.

Steering Sensor Clusters

Most vehicles mount the steering angle and torque sensors in a single module on the steering shaft. Some call it a steering sensor cluster. The module connects to a Controller Area Network (CAN) bus. On some vehicles, it can connect directly to the ABS/ESC module. 

Resetting Sensors

Many vehicles require the SAS to be reset or recalibrated after an alignment is performed (even if the rear toe is adjusted) or components in the steering system are replaced. There are three types of reset procedures:

• First, systems that self-calibrate on their own. 
• Second, vehicles that require specific wires to be grounded or buttons be pressed. 
• Third, systems that require recalibration with a scan tool. 

Even if the SAS is out of calibration, most vehicles have ways to sense if it is traveling in a straight line. If the angle is far enough out of range, it might set a trouble code and disable the ABS and/or ESC system.

Self-Calibration

On some import vehicles, recalibrating the sensor after an alignment or if the battery has died is just a matter of turning the wheels lock to lock, centering the wheel and cycling the key. This “auto learn” functionality is becoming more common on newer vehicles.

Scan Tool Steering Angle Sensor Reset 

There are many options for scan tools to reset steering angle and torque sensors. Some tools are even integrated into an alignment system. But, most tools recommend that the calibration be performed on a level surface. This is because you are also calibrating the yaw and accelerometers. 

Also, it is always a good idea to perform a lock-to-lock steering wheel turn to complete the calibration.

When a driver hits a pothole or curb hard enough, extreme forces are put onto the balls or rollers and races of the bearing. This can result in the formation of a very small mark on the surfaces. The driver might go 1,000 miles or more before these components start making noise.

This damage is called Brinelling. This surface failure/defect is caused by contact stress that exceeds the material’s hardness limit. Brinell marks may cause the bearing to immediately make noise, and as the marks keep rotating, it could damage the entire bearing. If the impact is great enough, the preload on the bearing can change. This can lead to more damage and noise as debris finds its way into the grease. 

Hub Units

Hub assemblies are unitized, maintenance-free and non-serviceable parts that are preset, pre-greased and pre-sealed, easing installation and increasing product reliability for enhanced performance. These hubs require no maintenance or handling, which eliminates the need for preventive maintenance, grease and/or future adjustments.

Testing 

The first step in testing a bad bearing is an audio inspection. The typical sound associated with a bad bearing is a grinding noise that changes with vehicle speed while accelerating above 30 mph. A rumbling, growling, chirping or cyclic noise of any kind from the vicinity of the wheels is a good indication that the bearings need to be inspected without delay.

The most common method of testing wheel bearings is to lift the vehicle and grab the wheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions to feel if there is any noticeable play. By grabbing the wheel at these points, any play in the steering system is eliminated. But, with some hub units, the failure tolerance may be so low that a bad bearing is undetectable by this method. In these cases, a dial-runout gauge could be your best friend. 

Replacement

A high-quality bearing is key for performing a comeback-free job. High-quality hub units or bearings typically use higher-quality materials and heat-treating processes that make for harder surfaces. The harder surfaces will not Brinell under hard impacts. 

When replacing a hub unit, the replacement unit might feel stiff and difficult to turn. Do not return the bearing. Some hub units and sealed bearings are pre-filled with a special grease that prevents damage while the bearing is being shipped. The grease is designed to have a high viscosity during shipping so the balls or rollers do not destroy the surfaces of the races. After the bearing is installed, certain elements in the grease break down to allow the bearing to turn normally.

Removing some hub units may be very difficult due to corrosion. This can be the case more frequently on vehicles with aluminum knuckles. In some cases, it might be necessary to press the hub from the knuckle off of the vehicle using a puller.

Once the old bearing has been removed, take the time to clean and inspect the bearing bore and axle surfaces that make contact with the bearing. Any debris or imperfections can prevent the bearing from seating properly.

Check the bore for roundness using a snap bore gauge. The gauge should easily rotate in the bore. Any distortion in the bore can cause a new bearing to fail prematurely. It can also make installing the new bearing to the proper depth impossible. 

While it may appear to be easier to use an impact wrench, it is not recommended. OEM and bearing manufacturers always recommend using a torque wrench for installation. During removal, an impact wrench can damage the axle nut threads and shock the CV joints. It can also create a false sense of security when adjusting a nut or bolt, which may be under- or over-torqued. This can leave a hub assembly susceptible to failure. Also, in almost all cases, you should use a new axle nut. 

Connectors and Harnesses

It is not uncommon to pull a replacement wheel bearing hub with a three-feet harness out of the box. You might be tempted to splice the harness together to avoid removing brittle wheelwell liners. But, no matter how much solder and heat shrink tubing you use, the connection will not be as good.

It is critical that the harness be routed in the same way as the original. If a harness is not routed properly, it can become pinched between the brake and chassis components. Some new hub units include new clips and hardware.

On some vehicles, the wires tend to be brittle and break as a result of fatigue from road vibration and/or steering maneuvers. Replacing the wheel-speed sensor (WSS) wiring harness is usually the recommended fix for these situations. 

It is very difficult to repair WSS harnesses since the harness is in an environment that is exposed to water, heat and flying debris. The voltages measured by the next generation of wheel-speed sensors are so small that an alteration in the wiring can cause problems. This can lead to even more ABS diagnostic codes being set.

Some vehicles that use sealed hub units have the wheel-speed sensor and tone ring located between the bearings or on the inner seal. As the bearings wear out or are damaged, the air gap can change as end play increases. This change in air gap can cause “erratic” or “weak” wheel-speed sensor codes.

If you have a scan tool that can access the PIDs and data for the wheel-speed sensors, it is possible to observe play in the bearings as the car corners and brakes. Speeds may drop dramatically when compared to the inputs from the other wheels. If the ABS/ESC system detects this condition, it will disable the system and illuminate the ABS light. If a vehicle has these symptoms, replace the bearing or hub unit, even if it is not making noise or no play is present.

In 2024, Hertz decided to sell off many of its electric vehicles (EVs). One of the main reasons cited was that people kept crashing them. They also expressed concerns about the lack of collision shops willing to repair EVs and the lengthy period the vehicles would be out of service. But what was a problem for Hertz represents a significant opportunity for body shops.

Repairing the body and chassis of an EV is quite similar to making those repairs on internal combustion vehicles. You still have steel, plastic and paint that must be repaired or replaced. However, if the damage extends to the high-voltage battery or the drive unit, the repair process becomes a little more complex. The learning curve for working around high-voltage systems requires an investment in both training and specialized tools. Performing repairs without proper safety and high-voltage system training can be costly for your shop. In some cases, a 300-volt battery shorting out can cause more damage than just a fender bender. Having the appropriate tools and personal protective equipment is essential.

The first piece of equipment you’re going to need is a lift. If you want to have a flexible floor plan for your shop to help improve workflow, your body shop might want to utilize a portable lift to do wheel work, body repair or even detailing. But not all portable lifts are suitable for EVs. First, make sure it has sufficient rating for the lift capacity. Remember that most EVs are heavier than their internal combustion counterparts, thanks to the big battery pack underneath. Also, consider how they contact the vehicle when lifting. Frame-engaging scissor lifts typically have a wide lifting platform that extends far beneath the vehicle, potentially risking damage to the EV battery pack. BendPak has addressed these issues with QuickJack.

QuickJack is a line of portable lifts that are frame-engaging with an open center design, giving the operator the freedom to perform wheel, brake and suspension work, plus the convenience of under car access for collision repairs. The 600 ELX model was designed specifically for EV service with a rated lifting capacity of 6,000 lbs. and super long frames that offer the widest possible spread of lifting point access. When the job is done, QuickJack collapses to around three inches tall and can be hung on a wall or slide underneath the vehicle or even your toolbox. But for jobs where you need to remove the high-voltage battery pack or stand under the vehicle to work, you’re going to need a full-rise lift, most likely a two-post model.

In addition to having sufficient rated lifting capacity, you’ll need a lift with the ability to reach the OEM-recommended lift points on the vehicle you’re servicing. Tesla’s Model S, for example, has specific jack points that must be utilized at the outermost edge of the vehicle chassis. This minimizes the risk of battery damage and provides ample room beneath the chassis for battery pack removal. Arms that can’t reach these points can lead to costly damage to the battery pack. The BendPak AP series of two-post lifts such as the 10 AP are designed to handle the added weight and hard-to-reach lifting points of EVs. Their unique triple telescoping arms not only extend further, they also retract shorter than other arms to access enclosed pickup points. Plus, BendPak’s patented automatic arm restraints keep the arms where you put them. Even when handling a heavy EV, while a drive-on lift may seem like a good alternative, this design doesn’t allow for battery removal due to the obstruction caused by the runways.

The second piece of equipment that you’ll need is a battery lift to safely and ergonomically lower the battery pack from under the vehicle. With battery packs weighing up to 2,000 lbs. or more and costing thousands of dollars, you don’t want to trust a homemade solution. BendPak’s Mobi-EVS Battery-Powered Mobile EV Battery Lift Table slides under a two-post lift to control the descent of the battery and align the battery inside the vehicle should it need to be removed for body repairs. The Mobi-EVS can also assist with removing heavy drive components with the right adapters.

The third essential tool is a charger. The charger isn’t just a convenience; it serves as a diagnostic tool to determine whether the battery and charging system are functioning as they should. As mentioned earlier, you have to develop those “mind tools” by training and then also look at the service information.

For body repairs, it’s just as critical as CAT 3 insulated gloves and working on EVs. OEMs like Tesla and Rivian all have service information websites online for their all-electric lineups. These sites typically include the first responder guides and positioning statements, and they’re available free for you to use. You can also purchase a subscription for more detailed information with options ranging from 24 hours to up to a year. When reviewing service information and positioning statements, it quickly becomes apparent that many body repairs on EVs are very similar to those on conventional vehicles.

Still not convinced your body shop should be servicing EVs? Consider this: insurance analysts at LexisNexis found that EV owners’ frequency of insurance claims has increased by about 14.3% while the severity of the claim (or amounts paid out) has risen to 14.5%. This means that EVs are more likely to crash than internal combustion vehicles, and their repairs tend to be more expensive for body shop owners. These statistics should sound like a great business opportunity.

This video is sponsored by BendPak.

Rotary Solutions, part of Vehicle Service Group (VSG), a Dover company, has released the Rotary R1250 Leverless Tire Changer. This advanced, turnkey tire-changing solution improves shop efficiency and profitability by allowing automotive technicians a safer, faster and easier way to change tires safely. The R1250’s debut was a success at this year’s SEMA Show in Las Vegas, attracting professionals from across the industry.

Historically, tire changing has been a physically demanding task for technicians. As end-of-day and end-of-week fatigue sets in, lifting heavy tires on and off cumbersome machines can result in unsafe work conditions, inaccurate tire mounting and demounting, wheel damage, extended service times and unsatisfied customers. Rotary’s R1250 Leverless Tire Changer eliminates those risks with features designed for accuracy, speed and ease of use, requiring no heavy lifting or hand tools.

“With the R1250, changing tires has never been more efficient,” said Don Vanderheyden, vice president of business development for Rotary Solutions. “The R1250 provides automated options for several actions tire technicians perform regularly.”

Key features that set the R1250 apart include:

• Pneumatic frontloading wheel lift for strain-free setup
• Dual-bead rollers for faster mounting and demounting
• Laser-guided, automatic tool positioning for perfect accuracy
• Patented, quick-locking center-clamping pedestal that helps prevent accidental wheel damage
• Telescoping, three-position pedestal to service a wide range of wheels
• Built-in memory functionality and intuitive controls for easy operation

Additionally, the R1250 is ready to use right out of the box — no extra tools are required. With pushbutton controls and synchronized bead rollers, technicians can stay in virtually one spot, minimizing the risks of strain and injury.

“If you value time over sweat, the R1250 is the easiest Rotary tire changer to use for changing tires while improving your shop’s profits,” Vanderheyden said. “This turnkey system allows shops to change tires faster, with less labor, and at a higher quality — instantly boosting customer satisfaction and shop productivity.”

To watch a demonstration video of the R1250, click here.

For more information, click here.