Archives February 2025

Apakah slot server Thailand lebih sering memberikan free spin

slot server Thailand memang dikenal menawarkan berbagai promosi menarik, termasuk free spin. Namun, apakah mereka “lebih sering” memberikan free spin dibandingkan dengan server lain, itu tergantung pada beberapa faktor, seperti jenis permainan slot, bonus yang ditawarkan oleh situs, dan kebijakan promosi masing-masing.

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    • Promosi mingguan atau bulanan, seperti putaran gratis pada slot tertentu.
    • Putaran gratis sebagai bagian dari fitur game yang diberikan oleh mesin slot (misalnya, fitur scatter atau bonus).
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Apakah Server Thailand Lebih Sering Memberikan Free Spin Dibandingkan Server Lain?

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Thailand:

Secara keseluruhan, slot server Thailand memang dikenal dengan banyaknya promosi dan free spin yang ditawarkan kepada pemain. Namun, ini juga bergantung pada situs yang Anda pilih dan jenis permainan slot yang Anda mainkan. Jadi, jika Anda mencari slot dengan banyak free spin, carilah situs Thailand yang menawarkan promosi khusus atau permainan dengan fitur free spin yang sering aktif.

Magnets and Drain Plugs

Magnets in transmission pans and oil drain plugs help capture ferrous metals, but how do you know when debris is a sign of trouble? Andrew Markel explains the role of these magnets, what they collect, and how to determine if a transmission or engine issue may be developing. Learn key insights for better maintenance and diagnostics.

This video is sponsored by Auto Value and Bumper to Bumper.

The post Magnets and Drain Plugs appeared first on Brake & Front End.



Automotive

VW Touareg Suspension Issues


The second-generation VW Touareg hit the road in 2011 and finished its production run in 2018. Aligning this Touareg is very similiar to the previous generation. Previous-generation Touareg models had uneven and rapid tire wear problems. The second generation is not known for this issue.

Precautions

The Touareg is not your typical vehicle to align. It has a stability control system that needs a recalibration of the steering angle sensor if the toe front or rear is adjusted. 

On vehicles with air ride systems, lifting the vehicle for a repair requires that the vehicle lift mode must be activated. The vehicle lift mode switches the air suspension control off. This prevents readjusting of the air springs when the vehicle is lifted. Vehicle lift mode is automatically switched off at a speed above 3 mph.

Use the following procedure to deactivate the air suspension:

1. Switch on the electrical parking brake.

2. Switch on the ignition.

3. Press the LOCK button in the center console for 5 seconds.

The “Vehicle Lift Mode” is displayed in the instrument cluster and the indicator lamp in the LOCK button flashes.

Inspect the tires before alignment. According to VW, the tread depth difference may be no more than 2 mm on an axle. Also, the service information says a wheel alignment should not be done until the vehicle has been driven 1,000 to 2,000 km (621 to 1243 miles), since it takes this long for the coil springs to settle. 

Front Suspension

At the front of the Touareg is a double wishbone with a tall knuckle. The suspension can have either air or coil springs. The lower control arm inboard mounts have factory-installed cam bolts to adjust the camber and caster. The front lower cam bolt adjusts camber and the rear bolt adjusts caster.

The most common failure on these models is the lower shock bushing. Upper control arm bolts are torque-to-yield with a torque spec of 50 Nm and a turn of 180 degrees.

Rear Suspension

The rear suspension is a multi-link setup with a large lower control arm. Toe is adjusted with the toe link and camber is adjusted using the cam bolt in the lower control arm. 

If the rear tires have inner edge wear, inspect the bushings for damage. Most likely, the bushing that attaches the knuckle to the lower control arm is damaged.





Automotive

Non-Directional Rotor Finishes


Back in the day, a non-directional rotor finish was the method used to solve a common problem that occurred on bench brake lathes. If the crossfeed speed was too fast, the rotor became like a vinyl record, and the pads became the needle that followed the grooves in the record. This would cause a clicking noise as the pads moved in the caliper as it followed the concentric grooves.

The solution was to apply a non-directional finish. A non-directional finish breaks up the grooves cut by the lathe. These are typically cut with a rotating abrasive disc that moves across the face of the rotor. The finish looks like cross-hatch marks on a honed cylinder. In the 1970s and 1980s, the pages of Brake & Front End had ads for lathes accessories to apply a non-directional finish.

Why was it such a big deal? The reality was that the crossfeed on some lathes was set to what was used for drum brakes. The faster setting made more pronounced concentric grooves on brake rotors. Typically, the solution was to reduce the crossfeed speed to reduce the grooves. Also, many floating caliper designs were not great at holding the brake pads steady in the bracket.

Today, non-directional finishes on new brake rotors still serve the same purpose, but they also help in the bedding of some friction formulations.

The surface finish of a new or resurfaced rotor should meet OEM specifications for good braking performance, pedal feel and quiet operation. Brand-new OEM rotors and aftermarket rotors from a quality supplier typically have a surface finish that can vary from 15 to 80 microinches. Most brake experts say the best finish is 50 microinches or less, though a finish in the 60- to 80-microinch range is acceptable.

When a rotor is turned on a brake lathe with sharp bits (we emphasize the word “sharp” because it is absolutely essential for a quality rotor finish) and a feed rate that is not too fast, the rotors will have a finish that meets these recommendations. Dull bits and fast feed rates tear chunks of metal from the rotor, instead of properly cutting it as they should.

If you turn your rotors with sharp bits and the proper feed rate and depth of cut, using a hone to apply a non-directional finish can help to reduce noise and shorten burnishing times.

As a final step, any rotor should be cleaned so metal debris, oil and anti-corrosion chemicals are removed from the braking surface. Not washing the rotors after they have been turned can leave a lot of junk on the surface that can embed in the pads and possibly cause braking issues, as well as noise when the rotors are installed.

NON-DIRECTIONAL FINISH TECHNIQUES

Non-directional rotor finishes can be applied in a number of ways. One way is by using an abrasive disc in a drill or a special rotor refinishing brush. As with the sanding block, you want to give each side about one minute of sanding while the rotor is rotating on the lathe. Also, follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for rotational speeds. Another method is to hold a pair of sanding blocks wrapped with 120-grit sandpaper firmly against both sides of the rotor for about one minute while it turns on the lathe.

Sanding knocks off the sharp peaks on the surface of the rotor and generally improves the surface finish by 15 to 20.

WHAT REALLY CAUSES NOISE

A non-directional finish can reduce initial break-in noise and help suppress noise for a while; however, brake noise can still occur if there are vibrations between the pads and rotors.

Brake squeal is caused by undampened high-frequency vibrations. When the brakes are applied, and the pads contact the rotors, tiny surface irregularities in the rotors act like speed bumps, causing the pads to jump and skip as they rub against the rotors. If the pads are not dampened by shims (external or internal) or are loose in the caliper mounts, they shake and vibrate and may produce an annoying high-pitched squeal.

The vibration of the pads against the rotors can also create harmonic vibrations in the rotors that cause them to ring like cymbals. Depending on the metallurgy of the rotors and the design of the cooling fins, some rotors may ring louder than others, regardless of the type of surface finish.

So, even if you do everything right, you can still end up with a noise problem if the pads or rotors themselves are inherently noisy. Switching to a different brand of brake pads or substituting a different type of friction material may be necessary to get rid of the noise.

A tip for reducing noise-producing vibrations is to apply a high-temperature brake lubricant to the backs of the pads and the points where the pads contact the caliper. Lubricating the caliper mounts, shims and bushings is also recommended to dampen vibrations here, as the lubricant acts as a cushion. It also helps the parts slide smoothly so the pads wear evenly (uneven pad wear is a classic symptom of a floating caliper that is sticking and not centering itself over the rotor).

The type of rotors used on the vehicle can also affect noise. Some grades of cast iron are quieter than others. That’s one of the reasons why composite rotors have been used on various vehicles over the years. Besides being lighter, composite rotors can also be quieter when the right grade of cast iron is used for the rotor disc. Replacing a composite rotor with a solid cast-iron rotor changes the harmonics and frequency of the brake system and may increase the risk of brake noise on some vehicles. Also, some low-price rotors may use a lower grade of cast iron that is noisier than the OEM rotors they replace.





Automotive

Identifying Multiple Issues of Vehicle Complaint


While it’s common for a customer to bring us a vehicle with a single, specific complaint, we often find more than one problem when getting into the diagnosis of their original concern. The owner only knows one thing; they want the vehicle to run and operate properly. It’s our responsibility to identify and execute a complete repair and convey what that entails to the customer.

Case study 1: 4R75E

Today’s story begins with a 2006 Ford F-150 equipped with a 5.4L engine, 4R75E transmission, and 434,000 hard-use miles. The customer’s concern was simple: The overdrive light was flashing, there were hard shifts in every gear, and the transmission malfunction indicator was illuminated on the dash. The customer provided the following trouble codes to us: P0705 (transmission range sensor circuit fault), P0748 (pressure control solenoid electrical), and P1702 (transmission range sensor circuit intermittent fault). He told us that the transmission had been rebuilt a year previously, and had never worked correctly since that time.

I began the evaluation by checking the fluid level and condition to see that it was full and fair. A quick code scan before the road test revealed that a lot more was going on with this vehicle beyond what the customer shared with us. A laundry list of engine performance codes was stored in memory along with the three that were provided by the customer. During the road test, I was able to confirm the hard shift in every gear complaint but also noted engine misfires present and a lack of power once warmed up. During the under-vehicle inspection, it appeared that the range sensor had been replaced at some point.

At this point I recommend electrical testing to pinpoint the cause of our range sensor and pressure control problems. Our service writer explained in detail that there was more than one issue on the vehicle and that it would take extra time to pin down properly. The customer approved the additional diagnostic time, so I rolled up my sleeves to dig into it. 

I started with the range sensor codes. After checking power and ground down to the connection, range sensor voltages seemed normal but were out of sequence per the wiring schematic. TR2 should have had 12V present, but only showed 5V. TR3A, on the other hand showed 12V when it should have been 5V—very puzzling. I pulled the wiring loom off and discovered that the pigtail for the range sensor had been replaced as well. I removed the face of the connector and swapped pin 3 and pin 5. (See Figure 1, above). 

Checking from the PCM connector down to the range sensor connector proved the wires were simply in the wrong position inside the connector. I cleared the codes, and the range sensor codes never came back during the road test, but I still had the hard shifts and overdrive light flashing. This meant it was time to move on to our apparent pressure control issue.

I began by disconnecting PCM connector C175T and checking for voltage on pins 38 (vref), 37 (ssb), 36 (tccs) and 39 (epc) with the key on. Pins 38, 37, and 36 all read battery voltage. When I got to pin 39, I found around 4V present. With that information in mind, I load-tested the wire from the transmission connector (pin 6) to the PCM (pin 39) to verify that I didn’t have a high resistance in the wire between the two. I suspected that the internal harness of the transmission had failed, but with the mileage of this vehicle, it was up to the customer to decide how further into this he wanted me to go.

Since the transmission had been rebuilt recently, the customer decided to have us replace the internal harness and pressure control solenoid before committing to a fully remanufactured transmission. After replacing the internal harness and EPC solenoid, the transmission worked perfectly, and the customer was pleased that we saved him the additional expense.

Case study 2: 4L80E

Our next vehicle was a 1999 Chevrolet Express 2500 equipped with a 5.7L engine, 4L80E transmission and 268,000 miles on the odometer. The customer’s concern was that the engine was stalling at stops and the transmission was shifting hard through its gears. The transmission had been rebuilt and started having problems eight months after that repair. The shop that had originally performed the transmission work attempted to diagnose these issues and had replaced multiple components before ultimately replacing the engine without solving the issue. Oops.

Upon starting the initial evaluation, I found the transmission fluid level low and in fair condition. A code scan revealed P0748 (pressure control solenoid electrical) stored. I pulled the vehicle into my bay to check for leaks before beginning a road test. As I pulled onto the lift and stopped, the engine chugged and stalled out. During the under-vehicle inspection, I found the transmission pan leaking. At this point, I stopped to talk with my service advisor because there was no leak concern noted by the customer. The advisor called the customer to confirm that he had been adding fluid to the van. I suspected that the stalling was caused by the low fluid condition present, so I topped off the transmission fluid and started another road-test. Even with the transmission fluid full the engine still wanted to stall when coming to a stop. When upshifting, the transmission shifted more firmly than it should with normal driving, but the shifts felt normal with heavy acceleration. The pressure control amperage on the scan tool seemed to be normal (around .7 to 1A, as seen in Figure 2).

Figure 2.

At this point it was clear to me that I may have more than one problem to diagnose on this vehicle. Our advisor got additional time approved, and I began my research.

 Due to the hard shifting and P0748 code, I began by checking the circuit for the pressure control solenoid. When I inspected the PCM, I noticed that someone had spilled brake fluid on it when filling the master cylinder. I first checked the resistance in the circuit at the PCM C3 connector from pin 6 to pin 16 and found 4.5Ω, which is within specification. I then load-tested the wiring to make sure it could handle the current from the solenoid before putting my amp clamp on the circuit to prove what I already suspected. The current probe showed less than half an amp when our scan data showed around 1 amp. The pressure control solenoid was working properly, but the PCM had failed to control it properly. (See Figure 3).

Figure 3.
Figure 3.

The customer was advised of our findings that the vehicle required a PCM replacement in order to correct the hard shifts, but that if the engine continued to stall, the transmission would also need to be replaced. 

I replaced the PCM and that corrected the amperage issue to the EPC. (See Figure 4). Unfortunately, an internal transmission problem was evident after the PCM replacement, so we replaced the customer’s unit with our remanufactured transmission.

Figure 4.
Figure 4.

After struggling with other shops to get the job done right, our customer was very happy to get the van back in working order except for one issue: now the headlights didn’t light up. After a few minutes of checking power and ground to the headlight connectors, we were able to confirm the sealed assemblies needed to be replaced, and the van was ready to get back to work.





Automotive