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When a driver hits a pothole or curb hard enough, extreme forces are put onto the balls or rollers and races of the bearing. This can result in the formation of a very small mark on the surfaces. The driver might go 1,000 miles or more before these components start making noise.

This damage is called Brinelling. This surface failure/defect is caused by contact stress that exceeds the material’s hardness limit. Brinell marks may cause the bearing to immediately make noise, and as the marks keep rotating, it could damage the entire bearing. If the impact is great enough, the preload on the bearing can change. This can lead to more damage and noise as debris finds its way into the grease. 

Hub Units

Hub assemblies are unitized, maintenance-free and non-serviceable parts that are preset, pre-greased and pre-sealed, easing installation and increasing product reliability for enhanced performance. These hubs require no maintenance or handling, which eliminates the need for preventive maintenance, grease and/or future adjustments.

Testing 

The first step in testing a bad bearing is an audio inspection. The typical sound associated with a bad bearing is a grinding noise that changes with vehicle speed while accelerating above 30 mph. A rumbling, growling, chirping or cyclic noise of any kind from the vicinity of the wheels is a good indication that the bearings need to be inspected without delay.

The most common method of testing wheel bearings is to lift the vehicle and grab the wheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions to feel if there is any noticeable play. By grabbing the wheel at these points, any play in the steering system is eliminated. But, with some hub units, the failure tolerance may be so low that a bad bearing is undetectable by this method. In these cases, a dial-runout gauge could be your best friend. 

Replacement

A high-quality bearing is key for performing a comeback-free job. High-quality hub units or bearings typically use higher-quality materials and heat-treating processes that make for harder surfaces. The harder surfaces will not Brinell under hard impacts. 

When replacing a hub unit, the replacement unit might feel stiff and difficult to turn. Do not return the bearing. Some hub units and sealed bearings are pre-filled with a special grease that prevents damage while the bearing is being shipped. The grease is designed to have a high viscosity during shipping so the balls or rollers do not destroy the surfaces of the races. After the bearing is installed, certain elements in the grease break down to allow the bearing to turn normally.

Removing some hub units may be very difficult due to corrosion. This can be the case more frequently on vehicles with aluminum knuckles. In some cases, it might be necessary to press the hub from the knuckle off of the vehicle using a puller.

Once the old bearing has been removed, take the time to clean and inspect the bearing bore and axle surfaces that make contact with the bearing. Any debris or imperfections can prevent the bearing from seating properly.

Check the bore for roundness using a snap bore gauge. The gauge should easily rotate in the bore. Any distortion in the bore can cause a new bearing to fail prematurely. It can also make installing the new bearing to the proper depth impossible. 

While it may appear to be easier to use an impact wrench, it is not recommended. OEM and bearing manufacturers always recommend using a torque wrench for installation. During removal, an impact wrench can damage the axle nut threads and shock the CV joints. It can also create a false sense of security when adjusting a nut or bolt, which may be under- or over-torqued. This can leave a hub assembly susceptible to failure. Also, in almost all cases, you should use a new axle nut. 

Connectors and Harnesses

It is not uncommon to pull a replacement wheel bearing hub with a three-feet harness out of the box. You might be tempted to splice the harness together to avoid removing brittle wheelwell liners. But, no matter how much solder and heat shrink tubing you use, the connection will not be as good.

It is critical that the harness be routed in the same way as the original. If a harness is not routed properly, it can become pinched between the brake and chassis components. Some new hub units include new clips and hardware.

On some vehicles, the wires tend to be brittle and break as a result of fatigue from road vibration and/or steering maneuvers. Replacing the wheel-speed sensor (WSS) wiring harness is usually the recommended fix for these situations. 

It is very difficult to repair WSS harnesses since the harness is in an environment that is exposed to water, heat and flying debris. The voltages measured by the next generation of wheel-speed sensors are so small that an alteration in the wiring can cause problems. This can lead to even more ABS diagnostic codes being set.

Some vehicles that use sealed hub units have the wheel-speed sensor and tone ring located between the bearings or on the inner seal. As the bearings wear out or are damaged, the air gap can change as end play increases. This change in air gap can cause “erratic” or “weak” wheel-speed sensor codes.

If you have a scan tool that can access the PIDs and data for the wheel-speed sensors, it is possible to observe play in the bearings as the car corners and brakes. Speeds may drop dramatically when compared to the inputs from the other wheels. If the ABS/ESC system detects this condition, it will disable the system and illuminate the ABS light. If a vehicle has these symptoms, replace the bearing or hub unit, even if it is not making noise or no play is present.

In 2024, Hertz decided to sell off many of its electric vehicles (EVs). One of the main reasons cited was that people kept crashing them. They also expressed concerns about the lack of collision shops willing to repair EVs and the lengthy period the vehicles would be out of service. But what was a problem for Hertz represents a significant opportunity for body shops.

Repairing the body and chassis of an EV is quite similar to making those repairs on internal combustion vehicles. You still have steel, plastic and paint that must be repaired or replaced. However, if the damage extends to the high-voltage battery or the drive unit, the repair process becomes a little more complex. The learning curve for working around high-voltage systems requires an investment in both training and specialized tools. Performing repairs without proper safety and high-voltage system training can be costly for your shop. In some cases, a 300-volt battery shorting out can cause more damage than just a fender bender. Having the appropriate tools and personal protective equipment is essential.

The first piece of equipment you’re going to need is a lift. If you want to have a flexible floor plan for your shop to help improve workflow, your body shop might want to utilize a portable lift to do wheel work, body repair or even detailing. But not all portable lifts are suitable for EVs. First, make sure it has sufficient rating for the lift capacity. Remember that most EVs are heavier than their internal combustion counterparts, thanks to the big battery pack underneath. Also, consider how they contact the vehicle when lifting. Frame-engaging scissor lifts typically have a wide lifting platform that extends far beneath the vehicle, potentially risking damage to the EV battery pack. BendPak has addressed these issues with QuickJack.

QuickJack is a line of portable lifts that are frame-engaging with an open center design, giving the operator the freedom to perform wheel, brake and suspension work, plus the convenience of under car access for collision repairs. The 600 ELX model was designed specifically for EV service with a rated lifting capacity of 6,000 lbs. and super long frames that offer the widest possible spread of lifting point access. When the job is done, QuickJack collapses to around three inches tall and can be hung on a wall or slide underneath the vehicle or even your toolbox. But for jobs where you need to remove the high-voltage battery pack or stand under the vehicle to work, you’re going to need a full-rise lift, most likely a two-post model.

In addition to having sufficient rated lifting capacity, you’ll need a lift with the ability to reach the OEM-recommended lift points on the vehicle you’re servicing. Tesla’s Model S, for example, has specific jack points that must be utilized at the outermost edge of the vehicle chassis. This minimizes the risk of battery damage and provides ample room beneath the chassis for battery pack removal. Arms that can’t reach these points can lead to costly damage to the battery pack. The BendPak AP series of two-post lifts such as the 10 AP are designed to handle the added weight and hard-to-reach lifting points of EVs. Their unique triple telescoping arms not only extend further, they also retract shorter than other arms to access enclosed pickup points. Plus, BendPak’s patented automatic arm restraints keep the arms where you put them. Even when handling a heavy EV, while a drive-on lift may seem like a good alternative, this design doesn’t allow for battery removal due to the obstruction caused by the runways.

The second piece of equipment that you’ll need is a battery lift to safely and ergonomically lower the battery pack from under the vehicle. With battery packs weighing up to 2,000 lbs. or more and costing thousands of dollars, you don’t want to trust a homemade solution. BendPak’s Mobi-EVS Battery-Powered Mobile EV Battery Lift Table slides under a two-post lift to control the descent of the battery and align the battery inside the vehicle should it need to be removed for body repairs. The Mobi-EVS can also assist with removing heavy drive components with the right adapters.

The third essential tool is a charger. The charger isn’t just a convenience; it serves as a diagnostic tool to determine whether the battery and charging system are functioning as they should. As mentioned earlier, you have to develop those “mind tools” by training and then also look at the service information.

For body repairs, it’s just as critical as CAT 3 insulated gloves and working on EVs. OEMs like Tesla and Rivian all have service information websites online for their all-electric lineups. These sites typically include the first responder guides and positioning statements, and they’re available free for you to use. You can also purchase a subscription for more detailed information with options ranging from 24 hours to up to a year. When reviewing service information and positioning statements, it quickly becomes apparent that many body repairs on EVs are very similar to those on conventional vehicles.

Still not convinced your body shop should be servicing EVs? Consider this: insurance analysts at LexisNexis found that EV owners’ frequency of insurance claims has increased by about 14.3% while the severity of the claim (or amounts paid out) has risen to 14.5%. This means that EVs are more likely to crash than internal combustion vehicles, and their repairs tend to be more expensive for body shop owners. These statistics should sound like a great business opportunity.

This video is sponsored by BendPak.

Rotary Solutions, part of Vehicle Service Group (VSG), a Dover company, has released the Rotary R1250 Leverless Tire Changer. This advanced, turnkey tire-changing solution improves shop efficiency and profitability by allowing automotive technicians a safer, faster and easier way to change tires safely. The R1250’s debut was a success at this year’s SEMA Show in Las Vegas, attracting professionals from across the industry.

Historically, tire changing has been a physically demanding task for technicians. As end-of-day and end-of-week fatigue sets in, lifting heavy tires on and off cumbersome machines can result in unsafe work conditions, inaccurate tire mounting and demounting, wheel damage, extended service times and unsatisfied customers. Rotary’s R1250 Leverless Tire Changer eliminates those risks with features designed for accuracy, speed and ease of use, requiring no heavy lifting or hand tools.

“With the R1250, changing tires has never been more efficient,” said Don Vanderheyden, vice president of business development for Rotary Solutions. “The R1250 provides automated options for several actions tire technicians perform regularly.”

Key features that set the R1250 apart include:

• Pneumatic frontloading wheel lift for strain-free setup
• Dual-bead rollers for faster mounting and demounting
• Laser-guided, automatic tool positioning for perfect accuracy
• Patented, quick-locking center-clamping pedestal that helps prevent accidental wheel damage
• Telescoping, three-position pedestal to service a wide range of wheels
• Built-in memory functionality and intuitive controls for easy operation

Additionally, the R1250 is ready to use right out of the box — no extra tools are required. With pushbutton controls and synchronized bead rollers, technicians can stay in virtually one spot, minimizing the risks of strain and injury.

“If you value time over sweat, the R1250 is the easiest Rotary tire changer to use for changing tires while improving your shop’s profits,” Vanderheyden said. “This turnkey system allows shops to change tires faster, with less labor, and at a higher quality — instantly boosting customer satisfaction and shop productivity.”

To watch a demonstration video of the R1250, click here.

For more information, click here.

Rotary Solutions, part of Vehicle Service Group (VSG), a Dover company, has released the Rotary R1250 Leverless Tire Changer. This advanced, turnkey tire-changing solution improves shop efficiency and profitability by allowing automotive technicians a safer, faster and easier way to change tires safely. The R1250’s debut was a success at this year’s SEMA Show in Las Vegas, attracting professionals from across the industry.

Historically, tire changing has been a physically demanding task for technicians. As end-of-day and end-of-week fatigue sets in, lifting heavy tires on and off cumbersome machines can result in unsafe work conditions, inaccurate tire mounting and demounting, wheel damage, extended service times and unsatisfied customers. Rotary’s R1250 Leverless Tire Changer eliminates those risks with features designed for accuracy, speed and ease of use, requiring no heavy lifting or hand tools.

“With the R1250, changing tires has never been more efficient,” said Don Vanderheyden, vice president of business development for Rotary Solutions. “The R1250 provides automated options for several actions tire technicians perform regularly.”

Key features that set the R1250 apart include:

• Pneumatic frontloading wheel lift for strain-free setup
• Dual-bead rollers for faster mounting and demounting
• Laser-guided, automatic tool positioning for perfect accuracy
• Patented, quick-locking center-clamping pedestal that helps prevent accidental wheel damage
• Telescoping, three-position pedestal to service a wide range of wheels
• Built-in memory functionality and intuitive controls for easy operation

Additionally, the R1250 is ready to use right out of the box — no extra tools are required. With pushbutton controls and synchronized bead rollers, technicians can stay in virtually one spot, minimizing the risks of strain and injury.

“If you value time over sweat, the R1250 is the easiest Rotary tire changer to use for changing tires while improving your shop’s profits,” Vanderheyden said. “This turnkey system allows shops to change tires faster, with less labor, and at a higher quality — instantly boosting customer satisfaction and shop productivity.”

To watch a demonstration video of the R1250, click here.

For more information, click here.

EVs are not immune to tire punctures. Just like any tire repair, you’re going to want to begin by removing the tire from the wheel and doing a thorough inspection of the puncture or leak. Look for any signs that it was run underinflated for an extended period of time. 

With the rim removed from a tire that was on an EV, we can see that it has a foam core. Many EVs and hybrids use these types of tires to reduce tire noise. Mounting and balancing these tires is the same as any other tire. But, the one difference is how a puncture is repaired. 

For EV tires with this sound suppression foam, you’ll need to cut and remove a section of the foam to inspect the puncture from inside the tire. Once you’ve determined that the puncture is in an area that is safe to repair, you’ll need to take a closer look at the adhesive that was used to glue the foam in place.  

With the foam cut out, we can see remnants of the adhesive used to hold the foam to the inside of the tire. Cured adhesives will need to be completely removed prior to installing a patch or plug. To remove the adhesive, clean the area with a rubber cleaner and a scraper. Follow that up with your low-speed buffer to create a smooth even texture for maximum adhesion of the patch.   

Move on to the next steps of the proper tire repair process including, drilling out the injury with a carbide cutter and installing the repair using chemical vulcanizing cement. Always use the adhesive recommended by the manufacturer of the patch. 

With the repair securely in place, seal the area with inner liner sealer and the tire is ready to return to service. Reinstalling the foam is optional. If desired, you can use the inner liner sealer to prepare the area for reapplying the foam if the adhesive has lost its tack. 

Next, mount and balance the tire and rim. It is recommended that the service kit for the TPMS sensor is serviced whenever the tire is removed from the rim. With the rim back on the vehicle, we can make sure the TPMS light is out for the customer. 

This video is sponsored by BendPak.

10. Writing An Estimate

To give the customer an apples-to-apples comparison, you may opt to write your estimate in two sections. The loaded strut option, if available, will be very straightforward and require less installation time. For the second section, give the customer a breakdown of the cost for each component required for a complete repair, explaining that each of these pieces is already included in the cost of the loaded assembly. When purchased individually, these components tend to add up quickly and often exceed the price of the pre-assembled unit. Finally, itemize the difference in labor costs, pointing out the additional time required to “rebuild” the strut, which is above and beyond the time already required for removal and reinstallation.

9. Ride Height Check

If you look at the OE ride height measurement procedures in the service information, it might be overwhelming and confusing. Measuring Z-points and D-points could take a long time to measure. But, think about what you are measuring and why. If you are inspecting a vehicle, first look at it with your eyes. Look at the rake of the suspension and the stance of the body side to side. If you are under the car on a drive-on lift, look for suspension pick-up points on the body or frame and measure the distance with a tape measure or ruler.

For problems related to the ride height in the front compared to the rear, you might want to look at the caster first. If the rear springs have failed, the caster will be more positive on both sides than the specifications. If the front springs are weak, the vehicle will have more negative caster. Some alignment systems have targets that can be attached to the wheel wells and work with the wheel targets to compare the ride height of the corners. 

If these basic measurements reveal a problem with the ride height, perform the OE procedure to measure the ride heights. These procedures include tolerances that will help you come to a definitive answer if the vehicle needs new springs or other items.

8. Left and Right Struts

Are there right and left springs, struts and upper mounts? Yes. OEMs may create side specific components for some applications. Springs are wound in a specific direction to achieve the control and handling characteristics as designed by the manufacturer. On some vehicles, the springs can be different side-to-side to account for weight issues like a transverse transaxle. Also, some units have mounting tabs for the brake lines and sway bar on specific sides. Don’t guess with part numbers, make sure you get the correct part numbers for the job.

7. Don’t Get Uptight

To make installing the strut easier and avoid damage to the shaft, leave the upper strut mount nuts slightly loose until the full weight of the vehicle can be put on the strut. The loose nuts will give you a little extra play to attach the lower bolts. When the weight of the vehicle compresses the suspension, the upper mount can settle and avoid binding. You should then torque the bolts to the OEM specifications. Take the vehicle for a test drive to make sure the control and handling meet the customers expectations, then re-torque the bolts to ensure they are still tightened to the OEM specifications.

6. Replace the Bump Stop

Bump stops that fit on the rod of a strut should always be transferred from the old assembly or replaced with new parts. This is cheap insurance against damaging the new unit if it bottoms out. Even if the old strut doesn’t have one, check the parts catalog for a replacement. Offen the boot, bumper and upper strut mount are availiable as a kit. 

5. Ugga Dugga and Upper Strut Nuts

It might seem easier to use an impact to tighten the upper strut nut, but you can cause damage to the rod, valving and upper strut mount. By spinning the rod in the strut, you can damage the valving and piston seals. Also, the turning and excessive clamping force can damage the rubber coatings on the upper strut mount. This damage can cause a noise complaint.

You should also NEVER use vice grips to hold the shaft during installation. This can cause a rough, sharp spot on the shaft that can easily tear the upper seal causing a fluid leak. In fact, the most common reason for a shock to be returned is that it is leaking, and the leak is almost always caused by a shaft that was damaged during installation.

4. New Strut Won’t Fit

When replacing a shock or strut, check the orientation of the upper strut mount parts. Often the upper mount and the perch for the spring will be out of alignment. The alignment of the parts will make the installation of the assembly onto the vehicle nearly impossible. Some manufacturers include arrows that indicate the position of the components and how they should line up on the units and body. Some units will only go one way onto the body. If you do run into a situation where you can’t mount a unit, try rotating the upper mount and spring until they align.  

3. Alignment

Most vehicles have a limited range of adjustment from the factory, so it’s always a good idea to perform an alignment check after the new parts are installed. When ordering parts or building the estimate, it’s wise to always replace the upper strut mounts, which will help with the post-installation alignment. Installing a set of adjustable cam bolts or upper strut mounts will make completing the alignment easier.

2. Active Strut Wake Up Diagnostics

Most active suspension systems will perform a circuit check when the system wakes up. The system will send 5- to 12-volts to the actuators and ride height sensors. The system is also looking at the resistance in the circuit, and the amount of voltage dropped. If the system detects an open, short or voltage outside of the specifications, it will set a code. Next, the control module will fully open and close the valves in the struts. If the system does not detect any irregularities, the system will go into an active mode. 

Looking for these self-diagnostic signals can be performed using a meter. You may have to use a bypass harness or back probe the connector. If the system detects any problems, the system will go into a passive mode.

1. Priming Struts

If you pull a strut out of the box and then stroke the unit, you may notice that the unit requires a lot less force to compress or extend at the top of the stroke. This is normal for some new units. This can occur when twin tube shocks and struts lie on their sides during shipping and storage. Over time, the oil and gas inside can move between chambers while the product lies on its side. When the oil and gas are mixed in the working section, the damping effect may be irregular. 

Priming the unit removes the gas from the working chamber and moves it back into the reservoir. This is a normal operation that occurs once these twin tube shocks and struts are installed in their proper upright position in the vehicle. 

Most struts are self-priming, so manual priming is not necessary. If you have concerns with a unit with inconsistent dampening, stroke the strut a few times while the strut is vertical.

Paint Mixing Room

The main reason for having a mixing room is to provide a safe space for employees to perform their work. Paints and dangerous compounds need to be stored in a specific area to reduce exposure to toxic substances. Sophisticated filtration systems help keep this workspace safe by removing dangerous fumes.

Adding a mixing room to your paint booth indeed serves multiple purposes beyond safety. It enhances operational efficiency by providing a dedicated space for preparing paint mixtures, which can streamline workflow and reduce the risk of contamination. This separation allows for better organization and minimizes the chances of errors during the mixing process, ultimately leading to higher quality finishes.

Why Paint needs to be mixed properly?

Many paints tend to separate during storage, with the heavier components settling to the bottom and need to be mixed before use.

Process of Mixing Paint

For best results, follow these steps: Mix the base components as per the one-part painting technique above Pour the activator into the same container as the base, stirring continuously to ensure an even pour. Use a stirrer or drill bit to mix for the specified time, usually about 10 minutes.

Components of Paint Mixing

Indeed, paints are composed of four primary ingredients: pigments, binders, solvents, and additives. Pigments: These are the colorants that provide the paint with its hue and opacity. Binders: Binders are the components that hold the pigments together and adhere them to the surface being painted. Solvents: These are the liquids that dissolve the binders and help to adjust the viscosity of the paint for application. Additives: These are various substances added to enhance specific properties of the paint.

Single Pack Paints

Using the right stirrer for one-part paints is crucial to ensure a thorough and even mix. A suitable stirrer should be made of a material that won’t react with the paint, such as plastic or wood, and should be long enough to reach the bottom of the container. This will help to incorporate any settled pigments and achieve a consistent color and texture throughout the paint.

Two Pack Paints

The chemical reaction between the base and the activator is essential for achieving a durable and long-lasting finish. It’s crucial to mix them only when you’re prepared to apply the paint, as once combined, the working time is limited before it begins to cure.

Why do Painters add Water to Paint?

When using water-based paints, painters add a small amount of water to their paint for the following reasons: